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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.